Monday Beginning Camera
Class 4: Shutter Speed, Drive Mode and Focus Modes
Overview
We discussed shutter speed and did a fun activity, learned about drive modes and focus modes (which are not the same as focal points!) and looked at some great images.
Shutter Speed
Definition
Shutter speed is how long the camera’s shutter stays open during an exposure.
It’s measured in seconds or fractions of a second.
How shutter speed affects exposure (brightness)
Shutter speed controls how much light reaches the sensor.
Faster shutter speed (shutter open for less time) → less light → darker image.
Slower shutter speed (shutter open longer) → more light → brighter image.
Changing shutter speed may require adjusting aperture and/or ISO to keep exposure balanced.
A suggested way to practice is using Shutter Priority mode to see how ISO and aperture shift in different lighting.
How shutter speed affects motion
Shutter speed controls how motion is rendered.
Fast shutter speeds freeze motion (useful for sports, active kids, fast action).
Slow shutter speeds show more motion blur because movement is recorded while the shutter is open.
Motion blur can be used intentionally for creative effects, but exposure may need rebalancing to avoid overexposure.
Stability and when to use a tripod
Slower shutter speeds increase the risk of blur from camera shake (hand movement).
Camera shake is different from intentional motion blur and is generally something to avoid.
Stabilization (tripod or similar support) is recommended at slower speeds, especially if hands are unsteady.
Drive Modes
Your camera may not have all of these. By using these, we are telling the camera how many photos to take at a time.
Single Shot Mode
When to Use: Ideal for most types of photography, including portraits, landscapes, and still life.
How It Works: The camera takes one photo each time you press the shutter button. This mode is great for controlled environments where you have time to compose your shot.Continuous Shooting Mode (Burst Mode)
When to Use: Perfect for action photography, such as sports, wildlife, or any fast-moving subjects.
How It Works: The camera takes multiple photos in quick succession as long as you hold down the shutter button. This increases your chances of capturing the perfect moment.Self-Timer Mode
When to Use: Useful for group shots, self-portraits, or long exposures where you want to avoid camera shake.
How It Works: The camera delays the shutter release for a few seconds after you press the button, giving you time to get into position.Remote Release Mode
When to Use: Ideal for situations where you need to avoid touching the camera, such as long exposures, macro photography, or wildlife photography.
How It Works: You use a remote control to trigger the shutter, minimizing the risk of camera shake.Mirror Lock-Up Mode
When to Use: Best for long exposures or macro photography where even the slightest vibration can affect image sharpness.
How It Works: The camera locks the mirror in the up position before taking the shot, reducing internal vibrations.Quiet Mode (Silent Shutter Mode)
When to Use: Useful in quiet environments like weddings, wildlife photography, or any situation where you need to minimize noise.
How It Works: The camera reduces the noise made by the shutter and mirror mechanisms.Auto-Exposure Bracketing (AEB)
When to Use: Ideal for high-contrast scenes or HDR photography.
How It Works: The camera takes multiple shots at different exposure levels (e.g., one underexposed, one correctly exposed, and one overexposed) to capture a wider dynamic range.
Tips for Using Drive Modes:
Action Shots: Use Continuous Shooting Mode to capture fast-moving subjects.
Group Photos: Use Self-Timer Mode to ensure everyone, including the photographer, is in the shot.
Long Exposures: Use Remote Release or Mirror Lock-Up Mode to avoid camera shake.
Quiet Environments: Use Quiet Mode to minimize shutter noise.
Camera Focus Modes
Camera focus modes are different settings that allow photographers to adapt to various shooting situations. They help you acquire focus on your subjects effectively, which is essential for creating appealing photographs. The right focus mode can make the difference between a sharp, professional-looking image and a missed shot.
Main Focus Modes
AF-S (Auto Focus Single Shot)
How it works: The camera takes control of focus when you half-press the shutter button
Behavior: Locks focus once acquired and prevents you from taking a photo until focus is confirmed
Best for: Static subjects like landscapes and portraits
Key feature: Can use AE-Lock/AF-Lock button for "focus and recompose" technique
AF-C (Auto Focus Continuous)
How it works: Autofocus remains active as long as the shutter button is half-pressed
Behavior: Continuously tracks moving subjects and allows you to shoot at any moment
Best for: Moving subjects like wildlife, sports, and action photography
Advantage: More versatile than AF-S for dynamic situations
AF-A (Auto Focus Automatic)
How it works: Camera intelligently switches between AF-S and AF-C based on subject movement
Behavior: Automatically detects if subject is moving or stationary
Best for: Unpredictable shooting conditions
Note: Often the default mode on modern mirrorless cameras
Manual Focus Mode
How it works: You control focus entirely using the lens focus ring
Advantages: Complete control, silent operation, works well in low light
Best for: Situations requiring precise control, low light, or when autofocus struggles
Learning curve: More challenging but offers ultimate precision
Resources
Shutter Speed Photography – Shutter Speed Chart
https://www.photographer.org/shutter-speed/
Shutter-Speed-Chart-Scale.jpg (811×344)
https://www.photographer.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Shutter-Speed-Chart-Scale.jpg
shutter-speed-exposure.jpg (395×746)
https://www.photographer.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/shutter-speed-exposure.jpg
shutter-speed-chart.jpg (750×662)
https://www.photographer.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/shutter-speed-chart.jpg
shutter-speed-chart-2.jpg (810×1000)
https://www.photographer.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/shutter-speed-chart-2.jpg
What Are Drive Modes on Your Camera and How to Use Them? – Digital Photo Mentor
https://www.digitalphotomentor.com/camera-drive-modes/
Focus Modes Explained – Understanding Camera Autofocus Modes
https://capturetheatlas.com/focus-modes/
Dynamic Motion Blur Scene Of A Highspeed Monorail In Tokyo At Night Stock Photo – Download Image Now – iStock
https://www.istockphoto.com/photo/dynamic-motion-blur-scene-of-a-high-speed-monorail-in-tokyo-at-night-gm2225367026-641410955?utm_source=flickr&utm_medium=affiliate&utm_campaign=srp_photos_top&utm_term=lightpainting&utm_content=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.flickr.com%2Fsearch%2F&ref=sponsored
What is Back Button Focus and Why You Should be Using It
https://photographylife.com/back-button-focus
‘Help! My Photos Are Not Sharp.’ How Can You Avoid Blurry Images? | Fstoppers
https://fstoppers.com/education/help-my-photos-are-not-sharp-how-can-avoid-blurry-images-650414
Search: chicago night city scape | Flickr
https://www.flickr.com/search/?text=chicago+night+city+scape
The first picture of a human being taken in Paris in 1838 | Un jour de plus à Paris
https://www.unjourdeplusaparis.com/en/paris-insolite/premiere-photo-etre-humain-paris-en-1838
Homework
- Figure out your minimum handheld shutter speed by starting with TV or Shutter speed priority and a stationary object and keep lowering your shutter speed and taking photos until the object is blurry from camera shake. The shutter speed above that is your minimum handheld shutter speed.
- Fan exercise:
Turn on all the lights in your room for maximum brightness. Set your camera to manual mode with these starting settings: ISO 100, aperture f/5.6.
Start with a slow shutter speed like 1/30 second and take a photo of your ceiling or table fan running. The blades will be completely blurred. Now gradually increase your shutter speed – try 1/60, then 1/125, 1/250, 1/500, and keep going faster until the fan blades appear sharp and frozen in your photo.
As you increase shutter speed, your photos will get darker. When this happens, increase your ISO to maintain a good exposure. You’ll likely need to go up to ISO 800, 1600, or even higher to keep your photos properly exposed at the fastest shutter speeds. If you have larger apertures available to you (like f/4 or f/2.8), you can use them, too.
This exercise teaches you exactly how shutter speed controls motion blur and shows you the relationship between shutter speed, ISO, and exposure.
- Exposure Exercise:
Capture the same scene three ways:
- A good exposure
- One stop underexposed
- One stop overexposed
The key is to change one setting at a time (ISO, shutter speed, or aperture) so it’s clear what each setting does.
Setup
- Sit in one spot and choose a scene that won’t change much for a few minutes (no fast-moving subjects).
- Keep the camera pointed at the same composition for the whole exercise.
- Turn off flash.
- Shoot in Manual (M) mode.
- If possible, shoot RAW (JPEG is fine if RAW isn’t available).
Step 1: Make a “good exposure” (your baseline)
- Set a starting ISO (pick something reasonable for the light, like ISO 100–400 outside or ISO 400–1600 inside).
- Choose an aperture and shutter speed that make sense for the scene.
- Take a test photo.
- Use your meter (the exposure scale in the viewfinder/back screen) and/or the histogram to adjust until the exposure looks good.
- Take the baseline photo and label it (in your notes or by memory): Baseline (0).
Step 2: Underexpose by one stop (−1) — change ONE variable
Take three separate “−1 stop” photos, each created a different way. After each photo, return to the baseline settings before trying the next method.
Method A: ISO only
- From the baseline, change ISO down by 1 stop.
- Example: 400 → 200, or 800 → 400
- Keep shutter speed and aperture the same.
- Take the photo. (This should be −1.)
Method B: Shutter speed only
- Return to the baseline.
- Change shutter speed faster by 1 stop.
- Example: 1/125 → 1/250, or 1/60 → 1/125
- Keep ISO and aperture the same.
- Take the photo. (This should be −1.)
Method C: Aperture only
- Return to the baseline.
- Change aperture smaller by 1 stop (a higher f-number).
- Example: f/4 → f/5.6, or f/5.6 → f/8
- Keep ISO and shutter speed the same.
- Take the photo. (This should be −1.)
Step 3: Overexpose by one stop (+1) — change ONE variable
Take three separate “+1 stop” photos, each created a different way. After each photo, return to the baseline settings before trying the next method.
Method A: ISO only
- From the baseline, change ISO up by 1 stop.
- Example: 200 → 400, or 400 → 800
- Keep shutter speed and aperture the same.
- Take the photo. (This should be +1.)
Method B: Shutter speed only
- Return to the baseline.
- Change shutter speed slower by 1 stop.
- Example: 1/250 → 1/125, or 1/125 → 1/60
- Keep ISO and aperture the same.
- Take the photo. (This should be +1.)
Method C: Aperture only
- Return to the baseline.
- Change aperture wider by 1 stop (a lower f-number).
- Example: f/8 → f/5.6, or f/5.6 → f/4
- Keep ISO and shutter speed the same.
- Take the photo. (This should be +1.)
What to notice (quick reflection)
After you’ve taken all the photos, compare them side-by-side.
- Which method changed the look of the photo the most (depth of field, motion blur, noise)?
- Which method changed the exposure without changing the look much?
- Which setting would you choose first in this lighting situation, and why?
Optional: A simple tracking table
| Photo | ISO | Shutter Speed | Aperture | Target |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Baseline | 0 | |||
| ISO −1 | −1 | |||
| Shutter −1 | −1 | |||
| Aperture −1 | −1 | |||
| ISO +1 | +1 | |||
| Shutter +1 | +1 | |||
| Aperture +1 | +1 |
Class 3 - Aperture and Depth of Field
Overview: We briefly reviewed the exposure triangle, the concept of ‘stops’s, and dove into aperture and depth of field.
Aperture and Depth of Field
- Depth of Field Definition
- The zone from the nearest to the farthest point in your scene that remains in focus. Imagine you’re taking a portrait: DoF determines whether just the subject’s eyes are sharp or if their entire face is in focus, along with the background.
- Key Points about Depth of Field
- Acceptably Sharp: The term “acceptably sharp” is subjective. It depends on factors like how you’ll view the image (print, screen, etc.) and your vision.
- Factors Influencing DoF
- Aperture: The size of the lens opening (measured in f-stops) significantly affects DoF. Larger apertures (smaller f-stop numbers) create a shallow DoF, where only a small slice of the image is in focus. Smaller apertures (higher f-stop numbers) result in a deeper DoF, where more of the scene is sharp.
- Camera-Subject Distance: The closer you are to your subject, the shallower the DoF. Conversely, greater distance increases the depth of field.
- Focal Length: Longer lenses (higher focal lengths) tend to have shallower DoF, while wider lenses (shorter focal lengths) provide more depth.
- Sensor Size: Larger sensors (commonly found in full-frame cameras) generally yield shallower DoF compared to smaller sensors (like those in crop-sensor cameras).
- Visualizing DoF
- Imagine a narrow DoF as a photo where only a small slice is in focus (like a blurred background behind a subject).
- Conversely, a large DoF means much more of the scene is sharp (think landscapes where both foreground flowers and distant mountains are clear).
Practical Tips
- Portraits: For creamy backgrounds and subject isolation, use wider apertures (e.g., f/1.8 or f/2.8).
Landscapes: Smaller apertures (e.g., f/8 or f/11) help keep everything sharp from foreground to background.
Experiment: Play with different settings to see how DoF changes. It’s a creative tool!
Focus Points: Telling the camera what you want it to focus on.
- Single-Point AF
- Description: This mode allows you to select a single focus point manually. The camera will focus on the subject located at that specific point.
- When to Use: Ideal for precise focusing, such as in portrait photography where you want to focus on the subject’s eyes. It’s also useful for still subjects and when you need to control exactly where the focus should be.
- Dynamic Area AF
- Description: You select a single focus point, but the camera also considers surrounding points to maintain focus if the subject moves slightly.
- When to Use: Great for photographing moving subjects, such as children playing or animals in motion. It provides a balance between precision and flexibility.
- Zone AF
- Description: The camera divides the frame into zones, and you can select a zone where the camera will focus. It uses multiple focus points within that zone.
- When to Use: Useful for subjects that move within a specific area of the frame, such as sports photography or events where the action is concentrated in one part of the scene.
- Auto-Area AF
- Description: The camera automatically selects the focus points based on the subject’s position and movement. It often uses advanced algorithms to detect faces or subjects.
- When to Use: Best for quick snapshots or when you need to capture a moment without having time to manually select focus points. It’s convenient for casual photography and situations where the subject is unpredictable.
- Group-Area AF
- Description: This mode uses a cluster of focus points to track a subject. It’s more focused than Zone AF but covers a larger area than Single-Point AF.
- When to Use: Ideal for tracking larger subjects or groups of people. It’s useful in wildlife photography where the subject might move unpredictably.
Summary of When to Use Each Focus Point Option (remember to keep depth of field in mind)
- Single-Point AF: Portraits, still subjects, precise focusing.
- Dynamic Area AF: Moving subjects, children, pets.
- Zone AF: Sports, events, concentrated action.
- Auto-Area AF: Quick snapshots, casual photography, unpredictable subjects.
- Group-Area AF: Wildlife, groups of people, larger subjects.
Tips for Using Focus Points
- Focus and Recompose: For static subjects, you can use the focus and recompose technique. Focus on your subject using a single point, then recompose your shot while keeping the focus locked. This is harder to do than you think so use with caution.
- Back-Button Focus: Consider using back-button focus to separate focusing from the shutter release. This can give you more control, especially in dynamic shooting situations. See more in the Resources section
- Make subject speed changes in Focus Menu
- If camera won’t focus, step back a step (you maybe too close)
Resources
Exposure Stops in Photography – A Beginner’s Guide
https://photographylife.com/what-are-exposure-stops-in-photography
Depth of Field (DoF) calculator | PhotoPills
https://www.photopills.com/calculators/dof#embed
Exposure Simulator
http://www.andersenimages.com/tutorials/exposure-simulator/
bokeh – Google Search
https://www.google.com/search?q=bokeh&sca_esv=9eff12e450c8c5f1&rlz=1C1CHZN_enUS1119US1119&udm=2&biw=1344&bih=706&sxsrf=AE3TifNk4hucsWeK3SR413Z89RcRAzfYqA%3A1759416435030&ei=c5DeaITAAfvIp84PhePpgAs&ved=0ahUKEwjExfz84IWQAxV75MkDHYVxGrAQ4dUDCBE&uact=5&oq=bokeh&gs_lp=Egtnd3Mtd2l6LWltZyIFYm9rZWgyCBAAGIAEGLEDMggQABiABBixAzIIEAAYgAQYsQMyCBAAGIAEGLEDMgUQABiABDIFEAAYgAQyBRAAGIAEMgUQABiABDIFEAAYgAQyCxAAGIAEGLEDGIMBSMoWUJAFWMAScAF4AJABAJgBUKABlwGqAQEyuAEDyAEA-AEBmAIDoAKiAcICBhAAGAcYHsICBxAjGCcYyQLCAgoQABiABBhDGIoFmAMAiAYBkgcBM6AHzAqyBwEyuAeeAcIHBTAuMi4xyAcH&sclient=gws-wiz-img
DIY – Create Your Own Bokeh
https://www.diyphotography.net/diy_create_your_own_bokeh/
Camera Focus Points Explained – PhotoWorkout
https://www.photoworkout.com/camera-focus-points/
Focus Modes Explained – Understanding Camera Autofocus Modes
https://capturetheatlas.com/focus-modes/
Focus Modes: When and How to Use Them
https://greatbigphotographyworld.com/focus-modes/
What is Back Button Focus and Why You Should be Using It
https://photographylife.com/back-button-focus
Homework
- Try out the exposure simulators with different settings and try to predict what will happen!
- Try the aperture experiment at home:
- start with 1/100 or 1/125 shutter speed, ISO 400, and aperture of f/5.6
- place 2 objects on the same surface, about a foot apart and offset from each other
- work on getting the exposure correct for the nearest object by focusing on it and using the above settings, then increasing your depth of field by increasing your aperture number (aperture number gets bigger) to try to get the second item in acceptable focus through depth of field while still physically focusing on the nearer object.
- Continue to adjust your settings until you have a good exposure and enough depth of field for both objects to be in focus.
- Shoot photos! Use your photo bingo card and see what you get. Optional: Send me 2-3 images for gentle critique and editing
- Send me 3-5 Flickr finds to share with the class
Class 2 - Exposure Triangle Overview
Overview: We looked at the Exposure Triangle and how the variables relate to each other.
In photography, “good exposure” refers to an image that has the optimal balance of light and dark areas, ensuring that details are visible in both the highlights (bright areas) and the shadows (dark areas). A good exposure means that the image accurately represents the scene as intended by the photographer, without being too bright (overexposed) or too dark (underexposed). Cameras measure the scene and want its settings to equal 18% grey (the midpoint between darkest shadows and lightest highlights).
We increase or decrease our exposure in ‘stops’. ‘Stops’ are relative to your initial exposure.
Key Elements of a Good Exposure
Detail in Highlights and Shadows:
The brightest parts of the image (highlights) retain detail without appearing “blown out” or pure white, like the bird photo we looked at in class.
The darkest parts of the image (shadows) retain detail without appearing completely black.
It’s easier to bring back detail in the blacks and shadows than in blown highlights.
Correct Overall Brightness:
The image is not too dark (underexposed) or too bright (overexposed). The mid-tones are well-balanced.
Proper Contrast:
There is an appropriate range of tones from dark to light, providing depth and dimension to the image.
Color Accuracy:
Colors appear natural and true to life, unless a specific artistic effect is intended.
Intentional Exposure:
The exposure matches the photographer’s creative vision and intent, whether it’s aiming for a realistic representation or a specific mood or effect.
Shutter Speed:
Controls the duration of light hitting the camera sensor. Faster shutter speeds let in less light, while slower shutter speeds let in more light.
Aperture:
The size of the lens opening that allows light to enter. Larger apertures (smaller f-numbers) let in more light, while smaller apertures (larger f-numbers) let in less light. Aperture and focal distance control depth of field. More later.
ISO:
The sensitivity of the camera sensor to light. Lower ISO values require more light but produce less noise, while higher ISO values are more sensitive to light but can introduce noise.
Lighting Conditions:
Natural and artificial light sources, their intensity, direction, and quality affect the exposure.
Reflectivity of the Scene:
The brightness and colors of the subjects and backgrounds in the scene can impact the overall exposure. (e.g., Snow vs dusk)
Achieving Good Exposure:
Finding the right balance between these factors to capture an image that is visually pleasing and meets the photographer’s goals, which is subjective!
ISO:
Doesn’t always have exposure compensation so may have to change manually.
Resources:
Exposure Stops in Photography – A Beginner’s Guide
https://photographylife.com/what-are-exposure-stops-in-photography
blown-away-white-subject.jpg (720×514)
https://www.better-digital-photo-tips.com/images/blown-away-white-subject.jpg
Screen-Shot-2016-01-12-at-3.06.26-PM.png (780×529)
https://www.kimhildebrand.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/Screen-Shot-2016-01-12-at-3.06.26-PM.png
Exposure_triangle_cheat_sheet
file:///C:/Users/heath/Downloads/Exposure+Triangle.pdf
dc5a6607-dc48-4b13-9e14-9c34136585b3_Untitled+design+(48).png (2428×972)
https://images.prismic.io/pixop-web/dc5a6607-dc48-4b13-9e14-9c34136585b3_Untitled+design+%2848%29.png?auto=compress,format
photography-shutter-speed-aperture-iso-cheat-sheet-chart-fotoblog-hamburg-daniel-peters-11-800×393.jpg (800×393)
https://cloudfront.slrlounge.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/photography-shutter-speed-aperture-iso-cheat-sheet-chart-fotoblog-hamburg-daniel-peters-11-800×393.jpg
Essential Photography basics – Google Slides
https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1OMK2khLCSck2UgQEdCY8P0PPTO4ATysEk391F68ny-Q/preview?slide=id.g3b7c87081a_0_259
Histogram
file:///C:/Users/heath/OneDrive/Desktop/Histogram.pdf
What are Blinkies in Photography, and Do They Really Matter? | PetaPixel
https://petapixel.com/what-are-blinkies-in-photography/
Equivalent Exposure Calculator, or Compare Any Two Camera Exposures
https://www.scantips.com/lights/exposurecalc.html
The Web’s Original CameraSim
https://www.camerasim.com/original-camerasim
Why does the sky often come out white in my photos? | Discover Digital Photography
https://www.discoverdigitalphotography.com/2015/why-does-the-sky-often-come-out-white-in-my-photos/
Understanding the Histogram | Photzy
https://photzy.com/understanding-the-histogram/
Why does the sky often come out white in my photos? | Discover Digital Photography
https://www.discoverdigitalphotography.com/2015/why-does-the-sky-often-come-out-white-in-my-photos/
Homework:
- Google how to turn on the ‘blinkies’ on your camera’s playback.
- Keep looking for Flickr images and send me 3 Flickr URLs.
- Play with the Exposure Simulator and try to anticipate what will happen when you make changes.
Class 1: Introduction and Camera Overview
Overview: We got our toes wet by making our introductions, had some technical difficulty, and identified parts of our cameras. We figured out how to change our aperture, shutter speed and ISO, plus our focal point. We also looked at images on Flickr and talked about different settings.
Resources: This will usually have some further reading.
Homework:
- Get familiar with changing your shutter speed, ISO and aperture by picking a row below and changing your settings to match it. Keep changing your settings so it starts to become second nature 🙂
ISO Aperture (f-stop) Shutter Speed (seconds) 100 f/2.8 1/1000 200 f/4 1/500 400 f/5.6 1/250 800 f/8 1/125 1600 f/11 1/60 3200 f/16 1/30 6400 f/22 1/15 12800 f/2.8 1/8000 25600 f/4 1/4000 51200 f/5.6 1/2000 1/2 and 1/3 stops
ISO Aperture (f-stop) Shutter Speed (seconds) 100 f/2.8 1/1000 125 f/4 1/800 160 f/5.6 1/640 200 f/8 1/500 250 f/11 1/400 320 f/16 1/320 400 f/22 1/250 500 f/2.8 1/2000 640 f/4 1/1600 800 f/5.6 1/1250 - Go to Flickr.com and make a login. You don’t have to give them any money, this is a free service for our purposes! Then, find 3 images you like and can talk about and send me the URLs (just copy and paste the url in an email to me at sourwood.photography@gmail.com). We are trying to develop your eye and style.
Reach out if you have any questions!!
